The first thing we went through was the type of background and poses who should use to ensure that our pictures looked professional. Scott advised us to use a white background as it adds a sense of professionalism and looks better than it being photo-shopped onto another background. He then explained how we should put our model at least 4 -5 feet away from the background to make sure that the lighting is right on them to avoid blending into the background. Also, the main lights should be off when photographing.
We then focused on learning about the different lights, and how to use it to our liking.
The left light is labelled the main light which provides the shot with key lighting. With this light, since it is on the left, it can be positioned in a way in which only half of the models face is lit (if the right light is turned off) which was a good tip to learn as it creates a mysterious mood.
The right light is labelled the feel light which is used to block out shadows.
Lastly, the back lights are labelled the hair-line/separation light. This is because it hits the back of the model to make sure he is fully lit as well as to separate them from the wall. This avoids the model looking flat and blending in to the white background behind.
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We learnt that the lights are state of the art flashlights, which have soft-boxes on the front to diffuse and soften the lighting which shows that this is an extremely professional studio (which uses 3 point lighting).
Next, we learn the controls of the lights - on the back of the lights, on the side there is a wiggle icon in which you switch it up to turn it on (it shouldn't be pushed down as that doesn't do anything with the lights). There is also a green light on the side of the lights which is to test if the flash works. Also on the side of it there is a dial ranging from 1 - 6 which is used to adjust the flash. Scott recommended having it at 3 as a starting point and then changing it if necessary.
The last point about lights was to make sure to turn it off from the back first before taking out the plug as doing it the wrong way round could result in the fuse blowing up.
Next, Scott moved on to teaching us about the actual camera we will be using which is a DSLR Nikon D7100 with 24MMP with a 105-118 zoom. We were told to make sure the transmitter was on the camera in order to take the picture (click the yellow button to take shots) and when it beeps it means the flash is ready to go.
When taking a picture we should make sure to not look through the screen but through the view-finder as it gives us the exact image we are picturing. On the camera there is a dial on the left hand top side which includes the mode A(Appature) and S(Shutter) control shots. The A mode determines whether you have shallow depth of field or depth of field. Shallow depth of field is when the foreground is in more focus than the background whereas depth of field is when both are in focus. The higher the F number (F part is near the shutter), the higher the depth of field and the lower the F number the shallower the depth of field. The S priority controls movement of how fast or slow the shutter shuts. The lower the number, the slower the shutter and vice versa. If you want movement, you need a higher number.
If you want to change the colour of the picture press menu, on the left hand side there will be a green camera sign which should be clicked, then click right on set picture control then okay and click monochrome for B&W and vivid for Colour.
On the lens the AF means auto focus and we should keep it on this, and when taking a picture make sure it is turn sideways for a portrait shot.
After shooting, take 10 minutes to download all the pictures onto the computer to make sure that they do not get deleted or lost.
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